Reaching Lifelong Goals

For our Thursday excursion, we again boarded the Metro Green Line and headed for the National Mall.   Our plan was to take one of the tour buses and see the National Mall Monuments.   These sights are obligatory for any visit to Washington DC.   We decided to stop in and see the HOPE DIAMOND at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum.   The added bonus to this tour is the chance to see the collection of dinosaur bones.   Wow, this was really special.   The Smithsonian Natural History Museum is located right on the Mall and is next to the American History Museum.   The display of fossil skeletons of all the great dinosaurs is really something that everyone should see while in Washington DC.   We had a blast in this portion of the museum and took copious photographs.   The collection is not just the famous dinosaurs but also the early mammals including Mammoths and undersea creatures.   This was also very interesting.   I can grasp the idea of 16th century or 19th century dates, but when we are talking millions of years in the past, the mind boggles at the idea of this kind of “history”.   A ramp leading up to the next level of the museum led us, quite by accident as we did not pay attention to maps, to the display of the Hope Diamond.

The Hope Diamond is, of course, really huge.   The thing that I noticed was how dark in color it was.   It was on display as the center piece of a huge mineral and gem collection.   At the present time, the Hope Diamond is not in its original mounting.    It is going to be re-set into a new piece of jewellery for the 75th anniversary.    The mineral collection was quite extensive and we really did not have the time to do it justice.  Patty is a lover of opals and the display of this gem was one of her favorites.   The Natural History Museum also has a wing devoted to the oceans and the great Blue Whale hanging in the great hall was truly impressive.   The special exhibit, David H. Koch Hall of Human Origins is a look into the 6 million years of scientific evidence of human origins.    I am not an Anthropology Major  but it would come in a close second to being a History Major.   I have not kept up with all of the recent finds of this field and I was amazed at some of the new “cavemen” science has identified.   (I know this is not a PC term anymore, sorry…)    Research on the Indonesian island of Flores has uncovered a new species of early human called Homo Floresiensis,  a very, very small human.   The exhibit uses the term “hobbit” and the size of this human reflects this, only about 4′ tall max.   Also, there is a new type of Neanderthal that I was not aware of, Homo Heidelbergensis.   Maybe when I take the 300 level Baccalaureate Core required class in Anthropology I’ll get filled in on what I’ve been missing.   This exhibit was also more than one could absorb in the small time we spent in the Natural History Museum.   The Smithsonian Natural History Museum was a fun diversion to my pure “all about me” choices for museums.   I really enjoyed the time spent there, but we were burning daylight and needed to get onto one of the National Mall Tour buses.   The tours make the rounds of all the sights and one stops right in front of the museum every 1/2 hour or so.    We boarded an almost empty open air bus (we really were lucky, great weather, small crowds, cool breeze….) and started our tour of the National Mall Monuments.   We made plans while on the route for where we would stop and photograph (the Lincoln Memorial) and had a nice guided tour around Washington DC.   We took all of the required pictures, the Washington Monument, the Capitol Bldg, Jefferson Memorial and had a very “touristy” day.   Tomorrow’s post will be specifically about my experiences at the Lincoln Memorial and the Vietnam Memorials (yes, these were more tear filled experiences on my Dream Vacation!)

After leaving the wonderful Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum, I changed “history gears” into my love for 17th and 18th century sailing warships.   After finding parking, which was an experience in downtown Baltimore, we had a hike of a few blocks towards the harbor attractions.   This day was working on being quite hot, about 90 degrees.   We deserved a treat, so we found the Cheesecake Factory Restaurant in the shopping area near the water.   An added treat for me was the fact that our table overlooked the item of my bucket list quest….the USS CONSTELLATION!    As we were walking, I could see masts tops in the distance, and my heart was racing.   I think that I picked up my pace a little too much for Patty in anticipation of being on the decks of this ship.    After a wonderful lunch and decadent cheesecake, I was primed for my visit to this historic ship. The urban renewal project that the City of Baltimore undertook to create a destination center for this area is truly wonderful.   The centerpiece of Baltimore Harbor is the restored (or in the ongoing process of actually…) 1854 Sloop of War the USS Constellation.   The original US Frigate Constellation (1797-1853) was part of the fledgling US Navy.   The original Constellation was a contemporary to my all time top bucket list item….”Old Ironsides”, USS Constitution.   The ship that survives today is the second ship of the US Navy to carry the name USS Constellation.   It was built as a Sloop of War in 1854.   The Constellation’s claim to fame is that it is the only remaining sailing ship from the Civil War period.   She served proudly off the coast of Africa intercepting slave trading ships and saved over 700 Africans from a life of slavery.   The USS Constellation served as the midshipmen training vessel for much of her long career.   Officially decommissioned in 1955.   She was restored to resemble the 1797 Frigate configuration.   Through historical detective work, the controversy about her age and claims that she was not the original Constellation found that this ship was actually the one built in the 1850s after the original had been broken up.   By the 1980s, she was in terrible shape with almost a 36″ hogging in her keel (deformation due to structural problems).    She was again drydocked in 1994 and after a costly and extensive rebuilding as a Sloop of War (actual ship from 1854)  was back on permanent display in Baltimore’s inner harbor on July 2, 1999.

Today, this ship is one of the finest examples afloat of the last days of sail powered warships.   I was excited to go and visit my brother-in-law, mostly to see my nieces and family, but the prospect of being near Baltimore and this ship was another high point in our East Coast vacation.   I was very moved by stepping onto the deck of this ship.   All of the rigging and tall masts towering over me, the feel of being “afloat on history” was very exciting.   I had to have my photo at the beautiful wheel of the ship.   Walking aft, it was just like being a midshipman during the 1880s, seeing all of the ropes belayed and the deck fittings shining!    All of the decks of the ship are open for viewing and Patty and I went down the ladder to the gun deck.   Close quarters to be sure.   At the present time, the ship’s guns are not “run out” through the gunports.   There is restoration work being done and they were tied down and not on display as they would have been during wartime.   No worries, the excitement was still there, so our tour went toward the stern galleries and the captain and officer berths.   The stateroom has been restored and display of the officer’s wardroom table and the captain’s quarters were very nice.   The tight quarters of a ship of this era is really something to experience.    In the bow of the gun deck the ship’s sick bay is displayed with artifacts of the ship’s doctor and information about medicine at sea.

The next deck down is where the crew lived at sea.   The hammocks were hung in the same way as during the life of the ship.   Very low ceiling here, while taking pictures and just loving the experience, my attention slipped and I bonked my head on the timbers.    Focus, focus.   The next deck down is the Orlop deck or the hold.   This area is where you can see the old timbers of the original ship still exposed.   The feeling of the age of this floating artifact is really evident down in the deep recesses of the hull.   The working restoration “shop” on board the ship is in the bow of this deck.  All kinds of restored blocks and tackle, huge cables of rope and a good ole’ workbench for the restoration workers is on view here.   The entire ship is still being worked on by volunteers on a regular basis.   The work is ongoing, continually improving the look of the ship into its original condition. At right is a picture of the pumps used to pump the bilge of the ship and they are all original, with lead linings in the pipes and cast iron fittings, this was a look into the past.    This pump station is on the gun deck and you can see the cannons in their stowed positions by the gunports.   (Remember, you can click on all the photos in these postings to see a more detailed, larger view.)   It was another lump in the throat experience being on this ship.   I have built scale models of these old sailing ships over the years, researching  the projects extensively, but there is no comparison to actually step onto one of my original “historical loves”.

I wanted to get some outside pictures of this wonderful ship, so Patty retreated to the air conditioning of the adjacent mall.   I did not tour the other ships that are displayed in the inner harbor but they are special as well.   The WWII Submarine USS Torsk is across the water moored next to the Aquarium (definite must do on our next trip, I am a Tropical Fish nut also…)  and the light house ship Chesapeake is also on display and available to tour.   The Baltimore inner harbor is a beautiful place with much to see.   A whole day could be devoted  to all the sites.   We were eager to get out-of-town before rush hour so I quickly finished some photography and said goodbye to another Bucket List item being checked off.   The next day would be the Washington DC National Mall tour bus.   We made our way back to Joe’s house in Greenbelt, MD to spend an evening with family.   I was still basking the glow of my day at two impressive stops on my History Major’s Dream Vacation.

The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Museum was not on my radar until planning for this trip.  While looking at the preserved sailing ship, USS Constellation in Baltimore harbor, I noticed something that looked like a railroad engine roundhouse.    Zooming in I could see big old steam engines in a parking lot.   This of course was a real find for me.   I have been a Model Railroader since 1970.   My father worked for the Southern Pacific in Oregon as well as the New York Central Railroad during WWII.   Trains, planes and ships (automobiles are cool too, but…) are my historical loves of my entire life, 40 years of it!!    More research led me to the B & O Museum, wow!!   Not being on my original “bucket list”, this museum soon became a priority when we were to visit Baltimore harbor.   This museum was not one that my wife had much interest in, she ensconced herself at a comfy table in the gift shop and gave me permission to experience this one on my own.   I resigned myself to not trying to teach Patty about the history of the early railroads of the US, she had a book and was just fine in the air-conditioned gift shop.   (Weather during the trip was not really oppressive, a couple of 90 degree days, but the humidity was not as bad as we had been warned)   Universally recognized as the birthplace of American railroading, the Museum’s site represents the vision, establishment, development and creation of the first common carrier railroad in the Western Hemisphere. The first 1.5 miles of mainline railroad right of way carries visitors on seasonal train rides to the site where the First Stone of the Baltimore & Ohio Rail Road was laid on July 4, 1828 by Charles Carroll of Carrollton, last living signer of the Declaration of Independence.  (reprinted from the museum website)   The roundhouse is truly a work of late 19th century art, brick and wood and wonderful lines.   Looking up into the ceiling of the restored building is absolutely beautiful.   As I entered the roundhouse I was treated to some of the most significant artifacts of railroad history in the world.   East coast railroads were established in the 1830s and there were wonderful replicas of very early locomotives. Actual restored engines from the 1850s through the 1890s were especially wonderful.   Some one of a kind examples of early railroading were restored to original condition.   I was like a kid in a candy store.    Railroading in the West had different equipment than what was used in the East.   I have studied mostly the Southern Pacific RR and the Northern Pacific Railroad.   It was a treat to see some of the unique types of equipment that I had never been exposed to in person.  The Baltimore and Ohio roundhouse that has been restored was built in 1884.   It is truly a beautiful building. Adjacent to the roundhouse are the Mt. Clare shops that were established in 1828 and are the oldest continually operating railroad shops in the world.   Inside this building the collection includes some of the B & O and C & O locomotives from the modern steam era.  The huge Allegheny Type 2-6-6-6 articulated steam locomotive was the largest.   They were used by the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad for hauling huge coal trains (15 mph was all they could muster through the rugged Virginia mountains).   Also a beautiful streamlined passenger locomotive from the 1940s, a C & O  4-6-4 “Hudson” type.   These huge steamers were difficult to photograph in the shop’s close quarters, but just walking through the “forest” of steam locomotives was an experience in itself. The railroad car at left is a gift from the French people to the state of Maryland  from the French National Railways.   The boxcar (in Europe they are “wagons”) was used in the First World War.   The B & O railroad in the 1830s used some very interesting looking passenger cars.   The museum has a replica of one.   (None survive as they were made of wood and were scrapped when they were obsolete)   A small engine from the period would pull 3 or 4 of these “passenger cars”.   There were many other special pieces of railroad history within the grounds of the B & O Railroad Museum.   I tried not to overstay my welcome with my wife waiting for me so I moved a little quicker and moved inside to see the wonderful display of scale models of railroad equipment through history.    These scale models were a real treat as well as I am a scale modeller myself and can appreciate such beauty.   Although my time was short, I did have quite a wonderful experience at this museum.   I was able to see pieces of early railroad history, unique East Coast types of equipment and some really huge steam locomotives.   Before I could leave the museum, I had to walk around the bone yard display of equipment that had not been restored yet.   The collection of old unique diesel engines and steam engines waiting their turns for restoration was a museum in itself.   Of special note was an EMD BL-2 Diesel from the 1950s, something you don’t see on the west coast.   Also the last steam locomotive built in the USA by the Baldwin Locomotive Works was also on display.   This huge steamer for the C & O was a 2-6-6-2 type articulated.  I have the same locomotive, only the small N Scale (1:160) version which is only a few inches long.   This giant really put my hobby into a new light.

This was only part of our day in Baltimore Maryland.   From this museum, we traveled  a few short blocks to the Baltimore Harbor to experience one of my top bucket list items, the sailing ship USS Constellation.   Tomorrow’s post will be specifically on my walking the decks of this floating artifact from the mid 19th century.

The NASM on the National Mall was too important to me for only one blog posting.   Continuing with the “Legend, Memory and Great War in the Air gallery, we have a SPAD XIII that actually saw service in Europe during WWI.   Many of the SPADs on display are ex-training aircraft and did not see combat.   The Smithsonian’s Smith IV was assigned to the 22nd Aero Pursuit Squadron of the U.S. Army Air Service, which was taking part in the Saint-Mihiel offensive. The aircraft entered combat during this campaign, and by the end of the war six victories had been scored in it by various pilots.   This is significant.  There are still small bullet hole patches on the wings from combat.  The restoration of this aircraft in the 80s retained these battle scars.   I had to move on, as much as I wanted to spend more time with my WWI aircraft, history marches forward. There were some types from WWII that  are not in most Air Museums, of note was the Italian Macchi C.202 fighter.   This one was a treat, built models of them, never seen one in person.  Suspended from the ceiling of the WWII gallery it was in fine company with a Messerschmitt, Spitfire, Zero and Mustang.    The collection of WWII aircraft features some of the more well-known aircraft and they are staples at many air museums around the country.    This is not to say they are “common”, any aircraft from WWII is a significant display.   This museum is kind of sensory overload for a history nut, so I had to focus, focus, focus.   The collection from the Navy was just as enjoyable, with aircraft spanning the periods from the 30s all the way to current jets.   The gallery is set up to resemble a aircraft carrier and it’s interior spaces were used for additional displays.   Important civil aircraft and record breakers are also on display.   Hanging above the main welcome gallery is the Spirit of St. Louis, again a very moving experience for me to behold.  There are two main sections to the NASM, one with aircraft and the other, spacecraft.   I will move on to this side of the museum now and leave the best experience for last.    The artifacts on display from the NASA moon shots was very interesting, from large items like the Saturn V booster engines (extremely huge!!) to space candy, M&Ms that traveled in space as astronaut treats.    Significant artifacts that really hit home with me included John Glenn’s original space suit, Yuri Gagarin’s CCCP spacesuit and the moon suite from Apollo 15 that still had MOON DUST on the boots.   I was reliving my youth by actually seeing the actual items that had traveled into space as I watched on our black and white TV in the 60s.

The Lunar Excursion Module they have on display was actually slated to go into space on Apollo 5, but the success of the LM1 mission cancelled this flight and this spacecraft was used as a training vehicle.   The two astronauts coming down the ladder give the feel of what it was like back in 1969 when Armstrong and Aldrin walked on the moon.   This event in history is burned into my childhood memories as we watched in awe as the first steps on the moon were broadcast in the grainy, black and white video of the day.

I have been an aviation history buff most of my life.   My recent specialization in early aviation (WWI) has been a big part of my research over the past 20 years.   The goal of seeing the National Air Space Museum has been on my list since I was a child.   For the last 40 years I have dreamed of reaching this lifelong goal.   If it not for my wonderful wife, who seems to be quite invested in my dreams and goals, this dream vacation would never have happened.   Although my primary interest is WWI, walking into the Wright Brothers and the Invention of the Aerial Age Gallery hit me in a big way.   To think that I was standing before the actual Wright Flyer, the artifact that meant the most to me in this facility was just too  moving for me to keep my composure.   It all just came over me at once, my new life as a Non Traditional College Student, my goal of becoming a Historian, reaching a lifelong goal of being at the NASM and being in front of the actual origin of my passion.  Patty left me on my own, she was enjoying reading the well presented displays and being a supportive wife.   I tried not to be too obvious, but I just lost it.   I stood before the flyer, weeping, my heart bursting from my chest with emotion.   Of all the sights I was enjoying on this vacation, this one was special, very special.

After gathering myself together, I was able to document this aircraft photographically.   The NASM display of the Wright flyer is really spectacular.   The condition of the aircraft has been maintained since  it was presented to the Smithsonian from the Estate of Orville Wright.   It was recovered in 1927  under supervision by Orville Wright and again in 1985.   The original fabric which covered the wings on that day in December 1903 is on display.   The unbleached muslin was not coated with dope to save weight.

Just a piece of white cloth, folded up in a glass case, it does not seem like a big deal…   Looking at things through my new eyes as an Aviation Historian and a History Major gives new meaning to even the most mundane artifacts on display in museums.   Just some old cloth, to an airplane nut, this is like the Shroud of Turin!   My experience at the National Air and Space Museum was the highpoint of my History Major’s Dream Vacation.   I clicked off the #2 item on the Bucket List of places to go before I die.   Not for the faint  of heart, this museum is truly a life changing experience…if you are an aviation fanatic like me.

Tomorrow’s post changes directions, trains and ships, two more of my passions and bucket list items achieved.

This was possibly the most exciting day of our whole vacation, my trip to the National Air Space Museum on the National Mall.   This was probably the highest item on my History Major “Bucket List”.   I have been dreaming of seeing this museum for as long as I can remember, and this is a high point in my process of “Reaching Lifelong Goals” as this blog’s title reflects.  Our first trip to the Mall on our own, we trekked to the Metro Station with our “smartpass” tickets in hand.   Within about a half an hour, I was standing in downtown Washington DC.   Our first task was to hit Starbucks, adjacent to the Navy Memorial Metro stop.    As a side note, the East Coast seems to only have Starbucks as coffee options.   It is not like the Northwest where there are espresso drive through stores on  every corner and coffee shops of all flavors everywhere.  This lack of  caffeine availability was duly noted.  But I digress…   My heart was racing as we went through the security checkpoint  and I was able to see some Milestones of Flight Exhibits just waiting for me, beckoning somehow…   Looking up I was treated to Gen. Chuck Yeager’s Bell X-1 “Glamorous Glennis” in all of its orange glory (definitely a Oregon State Beaver plane…)  The huge open hall of the NASM entrance has some extremely historically significant artifacts and my journey began in earnest. John Glenn’s Freedom 7 Mercury Capsule,  the Gemini IV capsule ( the first American spacewalk by Ed White ) and the Apollo 11 Capsule “Columbia”.   Being a child of the 60s, the NASA race to the moon was a big part of my early interest in all things aviation.   Standing in the presence of these space craft was truly moving.    I had a hard time keeping my composure while looking inside of the moonshot capsule, thinking, I watched this happen so many years ago, history personified.   The aircrafts that are on display at this facility are the most significant examples of aviation history.   I’m sure to many folks, my wife included, they are just a bunch of old airplanes.   As a historian, I can no longer look at even the smallest artifact without having that “rush of history” come over me.

My primary specialty in history is World War One Aviation.   I will be writing on this topic and it is a big part of my life.    The WWI gallery was one of the most exciting areas of the NASM.   The Fokker DVII shown at left is one of the few remaining original examples of this German fighter.   It was brought back to the USA after the war and the Army tested it and used it for training for a few years in the 1920s.   The restoration of this aircraft is immaculate and it is one of the best examples anywhere in the world today.   Of course, I was really choked up about this one, spent many minutes just being “with” it.   Very big event for me.   Looking up, I saw one of the other holy grails of my visit the Albatros D.Va  “Stropp”. This is another original WWI vintage aircraft.  The colorful pattern on the wing fabric is called lozenge camouflage.   The restoration of this valuable aircraft is also absolutely flawless.   Aside from the dirt and grime of everyday flying, this is how a WWI Albatros fighter would look during its operational career.   Colorful, yes, but this is why the German Jastas (Squadrons) were called the “flying circus.   I cannot begin to convey the thrill of seeing these aircraft in the WWI Gallery.   This is my passion, and to see these original examples of my main aviation historical specialty was the 2nd most important highlight of my trip to this facility.   Tomorrow’s posting will continue with my trip to the National Air and Space Museum,  the experience cannot be handled in the space available for one blog post.   I need to chronicle the ultimate joy of this trip when I have calmed myself down from this posting a wee bit.    Stay tuned…